Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Bali-Ho: The Final Asian Adventure

The last few weeks of November and early December were spent working (Nicole), tackling exams and term papers (Jesse), and saying some goodbyes to the Canadian exchange contingent that split up after the exams to head home for the holidays.  Months ago, when Jesse and Nicole booked this trip, they made the decision to spend the holiday season in Asia, with the thought that they didn't know when they would ever get back to this part of the world, so it would be easier (and potentially a lot more fun) to stay a bit longer and squeeze out one more trip before coming back to Hong Kong for Christmas.

For several months (maybe years?) Nicole had been harboring aspirations of vacationing in Bali - an island in the Indonesian archipelago known for its unique culture, laid back attitude, and amazing scenery.  So, taking these lures hook line and sinker, Jesse pounded out his last few exams and the couple took off on December 8 for two weeks in Bali.

I will spare you the excruciating details of our harrowing trip into Bali, but it involves a canceled flight, an upgrade to first class, and a delay of some eight hours on arrival.  Miraculously, the hotel driver had waited for us at the airport (missing a big holiday to help us out), and we were off to our first destination: Ubud, Bali's cultural capital.

Temples in the grounds at Ketut's Place
Ubud was a fantastic place to start our journey.  Located inland in a series of jungles and valleys, Ubud is a relaxed little town that offers a great showcase for Bali's various traditional art forms.  Bali practices a unique brand of Hinduism that is woven into all aspects of every day life.  This sort of spirituality is really on display, and we got to see it first hand at our guest house, Ketut's Place.  More of a home-stay than a resort, Ketut has turned his traditional family home into a B&B in a way that invites foreigners like us into the family.  With an ancestral shrine, several decorated guest houses, and a jungle-side pool, Ketut's was a great place to call home for a few nights.  Along the way, we also enjoyed a traditional Balinese meal prepared by Ketut's wife and mother, and were invited to a fundraiser dinner/dance for a new temple being built.

A note on this: it amazed us that with all of the room left for infrastructural development in Ubud, the community council decided to raise funds for a temple.  Not only are there large temples on almost ever block in Ubud, most people have further temples in their houses.  The Balinese turn almost everything into makeshift shrines, leaving small offerings and palm leaf decorations everywhere - from door steps to car hoods.  I think it says a lot about the importance of religion in this culture where temples are built while sidewalks crumble.
Kechak Dancers

Another way the Balinese celebrate their culture is through dance.  Ketut, our trusty inn keeper, was also a performer in the Kechak Dance.  Using only human voices as instruments, the chorus chanted relentlessly for more than an hour while dancers acted out a traditional hunt.  It was like nothing Nicole and Jesse had ever seen, and was a great showcase of local talent and culture.



Nicole with a bold monkey
One of the best parts about Ubud is the monkey forest.  As the name implies this lovely place has not only trees, but hundreds of monkeys running everywhere.  They are very cheeky and not at all shy.  Having done some shopping on their way to the forest, Nicole was carrying a plastic bag, which the monkeys assumed was full of food.  Poor Nicole was accosted by several bold simians, which scared the crap out of Jesse with their little fangs and grabby little hands.  Fortunately, serious incidents are rare, but photo opportunities abound.

Cute baby and momma!
Gunung Kawi Temple
Looking to see some more of the island, Nicole and Jesse hired a car for a day to take them to a few more sights.  As with most things in Bali, the tour was a great mix of religious shrines and natural wonders.  In some cases, the line between the two was blurred.  We stopped at a temple carved directly into the rocks (no mean feat in the tropical heat), before heading to another temple at a natural water spring.  It's amazing how the Balinese people have taken what nature gave them and adapted it into their cultural practices.

Bathing in the holy springs.
Leaving the temples, we stopped at a local farm to see where spices such as cinnamon, vanilla, chocolate and coffee are grown.  Bali is one of the world's producers of Civet coffee (and as the locals call it, Luwak Kopi).  Civets are cat-like creatures that roam the jungles at night feasting on coffee beans.  The civets then digest the soft flesh from the outside of the bean, leaving the bean to pass through its system.  Yes, civet coffee is made from beans harvested from the crap of a jungle cat.  This is also the most expensive coffee in the world, as aficionados love the taste, and workers scour the jungle floor every day looking for little turd piles.  Nicole and Jesse shared a cup (about $6CDN), and it was fine.  Nothing too special.

Making our way back to Ubud, we stopped at Mt Batur, a dormant volcano, before checking out some of Bali's famous tiered rice paddies.  All in all, a great tour of the island.

In front of some rice paddies.

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